Bar And Kitchen @ LS1, Leeds

Trying to get a restaurant within a hotel to feel like it is a stand alone destination in itself, rather than just being another hotel restaurant, is a fine art.

They may have accomplished it though at the Crowne Plaza in Leeds with the newly refurbished Bar and Kitchen @LS1 as it does not feel like you are in a hotel.

Only 10 minutes from the train station on Wellington Street it could be a worthy discovery.

The main thing though to make it a success is the food. Led by head chef Lee Miller, who has a passion for creating dishes with a distinctive Yorkshire flair, the restaurant serves quality, freshly prepared dishes that are cooked using a variety of locally sourced ingredients and only the best Yorkshire produce.

The pork pies and 8 Yorkshire cheeses are from a cheese-monger only 11 miles away with the beers and ales coming from a Leeds based brewery.

The Rip and Share Yorkshire pudding served with a big pot of succulent marrowbone gravy for dipping that I sampled was served with bread and was an unexpected surprise. The meaty gravy was rich in flavour.

A Yorkshire charcuterie board with cured chorizo, salami, air-dried royal ham, Henderson Relish (from Sheffield) with home marinated vegetables was just as good as anything I have been served in Italy.

My partner's Glazed Ellison Yorkshire goats cheese salad served with roasted beetroot and lemon dressing was well presented. Sometimes goats cheese can be a little too chalky but the Yorkshire made cheese served here had a creamy taste to it.

My main of Venison Steak Parmesan crusted served with butternut squash, purée and red wine jus was cooked to my preference. With its rich meaty taste the venison was a delight.

My partner chose the Aubergine Charlotte served with roasted cherry tomatoes and Provencale sauce, which is ideal for vegetarians. Apparently it tasted as good as it looked.

For desserts I decided upon the locally sourced Yorkshire cheese selection. The Cryer and Stott sourced cheeses were served at room temperature so that I could taste the richness of the cheese. The Yorkshire cask was wholesome and tangy, the Wensleydale with cranberries was a good combination, though the blue cheese could have been a bit stronger for me, as I do prefer strong cheese.

My partner thought that the Rhubarb and Strawberry Bakewell tart to be very light, you could tell it had been made on the spot, so to speak. The pastry casing was so light that when I tasted it, I could hardly tell that I had just eaten it as it was so light.

They appear to have put a lot of time and effort into getting the restaurant just right. With good service, good food and a chef who inspires enthusiasm and passion about what he serves, it deserves to be a success.


Bar and Kitchen @LS1, Crowne Plaza, Wellington Street, Leeds LS1 4DL
www.cpleedshotel.co.uk