Marco Pierre White Opens Up North!

If you are a fan of Marco Pierre White and his restaurants then the first of the Wheeler's of St James's of London to open outside of the capital here is in the north.

Situated on the ground floor of the Pullman Hotel it is not exactly slap bang in the centre of Liverpool, it is somewhere you would have to deviate to find, unless you were staying at the hotel or perhaps a pre-dinner visit if attending a concert at the Liverpool arena, which is just next door.

The atmosphere is laid back and the mood casual. Looking at the menu though you could think you were in Lyon rather than Liverpool as it is very French influenced.

Escargots a la Bourguigonne or caramelised Foie Gras for starters anyone? Wheeler's Plateau Fruits de Mer for your main perhaps?

Admittedly the Bay shrimps come from Morecambe. Fortunately there are plenty of other traditional items to whet your appetite such as Mr Lamb's Shepherd Pie and The Governor's Fish and Chips.

I chose the French Onion Soup for starters -thick with enough croutons and Gruyere cheese to satisfy the most discerning diner. Priced at £7.00 it wasn't half bad.

My partner chose the Salad of Beetroot and Goats Cheese priced at £8.95 which was a bit of a disappointment - there appeared to be no vinegar on the beetroot and it lacked flavour, bland was the verdict. However a fellow diner on the next table seemed to enjoy it.

I decided upon a more conventional main: The Governor's Fish and Chips. I wasn't disappointed: chunky haddock, decent chips and peas that tasted like they had come from your favourite fish and chip shop.

My partner was tempted by the Rib Eye 10oz steak priced at £29.50 - succulent and juicy it was the highlight of the menu for her.

Some of the sides are listed in French. With some of the staff being new they weren't familiar with the menu. The Liverpudlian who served us didn't seem to know what Haricot Vert were until we explained that they were "green beans to us northerners."

All desserts are priced at £6.00. My Traditional Apple Crumble served with vanilla ice cream was sugary and fruity, an enjoyable feast, but my partner's Banana and Caramel Mess was a disappointment - the presentation was poor, the cream that it came with was warm and altogether very sickly.

Altogether a mixed experience.

Wheeler's of St James's, Pullman Hotel, Kings Dock, Liverpool L3 4FP