A Lord's Delight Then Shepherd By Night!

There may not always be a red sky at night but, if every visit to the Lake District brings with it the promise of at least some shepherd’s delight, then hopefully any enjoyable stay will never be far away!

However, throw in a touch of five-star luxury and hope is very quickly replaced by certainty!

So, the prospect of a quirky two-night stay in a shepherd’s hut at the Park Cliffe caravan park just down the road from Lake Windermere on Birks Road, not only appealed to our sense of fun, but became a double joy when afternoon tea at Ambleside’s 5* Langdale Chase Hotel also beckoned.

“Caravan parks is all I’ve ever known,” said Susan Dickson who has run Park Cliffe with husband Derek for more years than she cares to remember.

As well as offering caravan pitches, the specklessly clean site, run with military precision, also has a range of 20 camping pods as well as a shepherd’s hut, the latter looking more like a traditional gipsy caravan thanks to its bright red wheels, than a ‘hut’, or indeed, one of the site’s other spacelike creations!

“Ian Bown of Newfoundland Lodges in Kendal created our original pod concept, but it was a rogue set of wheels from Poland that provided the inspiration for our shepherd’s hut, which we’ve operated to great success for five or six years,” said Susan.

Her phone rang for a second time. “I’ll have to go. That’ll be my 23-year-old son.” It was 6pm and already dark outside.

“He’ll want to know what’s for tea,” she grinned, adding, “oh, nearly forgot. I’ve left you and your wife a complimentary breakfast in the Fellside Bar & Restaurant. Enjoy!”

And then she was gone like Zorro in the night!

Our makeshift home for the night was tiny but perfectly formed: a double bed, sink, utensils, sofa and microwave but no tv and, at times, intermittent wi-fi, however, not an altogether bad thing as my wife pointed out.

“There’s no tv unless you go down to the Fellside Bar and, with limited wi-fi, YOU will have to relax!” She was right, of course, explaining, perhaps, our earlier than usual finish for the day and excellent night’s sleep.

The following morning, fully refreshed, we decided to ‘save’ our complimentary breakfast for departure day, preferring, instead, to partake of the yoghurt and fruit we had brought with us.

“My goodness,” I observed, “you have brought enough food for an army.”

“Yes,” replied my wife with a serious look. “It’s the Filipino way.” We’d be taking nearly as much home as we’d brought, I thought!

We spent the day in Ulverston, re-visiting our Laurel and Hardy memories, and took tea with the locals in The Old Bakehouse before frequenting the Market Hall opposite, and then heading to Windermere where we had an early evening meal at a local Indian restaurant.

Susan had extended us the luxury of a private bathroom and toilet for the duration of our stay.

“Don’t drink too much before you go to bed,” said Mrs H, “you won’t want to walk to the toilet in the middle of the night,” she laughed. “Anyway, it’s too dark!”

On site there’s a shop where you can buy all of life’s basic necessities and, should the mood take, a mobile shipping container is shared between a range of fast-food operators, each offering different fare depending on the night of the week.

Next day, with four hours to our 1pm afternoon tea at the Langdale Chase, we made sure we looked half respectable before leaving the camp site for a look round Ambleside: nice shoes, neatly pressed trousers a shirt and, had I had any to worry about, neatly combed hair!

We soon found ourselves sitting in the Langdale’s main dining room, staring out at and mesmerised by Lake Windermere as afternoon tea was hastily – and freshly – prepared in the kitchens.

Langdale Chase’s Swallows and Amazons inspired offering celebrates 50 years since Arthur Ransome’s iconic story first graced our screens.

The cast and crew of Ransome’s beloved novel were personal guests of the hotel during filming in 1974, making this the ideal moment to reflect on the magical story that has inspired numerous generations to visit The Lakes.

Presented on beautiful crockery made and hand-painted by local artisans, the afternoon tea menu is a delightful nod to the culinary escapades of the novel’s young protagonists and its author.

Sandwiches include Smoked Salmon with Beetroot and Cream Cheese, honouring Ransome’s love of smoked fish, and Pemican Beef with Horseradish and Red Onion, a veiled reference to the corned beef eaten by the author's young protagonists.

Potted Shrimps with Crumpets and savoury Cheddar Donuts tantalise taste buds, while sweet fancies pay tribute to the novel's whimsical tales.

A Chocolate and Marmalade fancy recalls the chocolate eclairs at the Pirate’s Party and the children’s beloved marmalade sandwiches, Gooseberry Choux reflects the berries picked on the children’s adventures, and Titty’s Bun Loaf is a must try.

Langdale Chase’s connection to Arthur Ransome’s work is a point of pride. The hotel not only hosted Dame Virginia McKenna, the film’s lead actress, but also served as the venue for the wrap party of the cast and crew in 1974.

This historical tie adds an authentic charm to the themed afternoon tea, making it a must-visit for fans of the novel and classic British literature.

It had been a trip of contrasts. On the one hand we had managed to ‘exist’ for 48 hours without a tv and meaningful wi-fi – Heaven forbid – whilst on the other we’d savoured some of the finest food Windermere had had to offer at the Langdale Chase Hotel; a touch of 5* with some glamping thrown in for good measure!

It had been an adventure. As the Narrator in Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons commented: “It was like exploring a place that you have seen in a dream, where everything is just where you expect it and yet everything is a surprise.”

It was a dream of an afternoon tea at the Langdale Chase followed by a fun night in a shepherd’s hut, where every sound from the darkness outside was an adventure and everything within had it’s place, only it didn’t if you get my meaning?

Great fun, give it a go! Become a child again.

FAST FACTS
Park Cliffe Windermere, Lake District: www.parkcliffe.co.uk. Tel: 015395 31344
Langdale Chase Hotel: www.langdalechase.co.uk
Tea prices start at £55.00 per person. Room rates at Langdale Chase start from £390 per night, on a B&B basis.
For more Cumbrian adventures: www.visitlakedistrict.com