A Surprising Delight - Nuremberg

Group Editor Andrew Palmer was taken by surprise when he visited the German city of Nuremberg, with its cornucopia of fine dining restaurants, musuems and its history.

As dusk approached, I climbed the hill to the Imperial Castle for one last time, one last memory, to catch a glimpse of the setting sun glistening over the distinctive red roofs that adorn the skyline of Nuremberg. It was then that it struck me: I had made a miscalculation; two days wasn’t enough time to spend in this enjoyable and delightful city.

Nuremberg is a friendly and safe city, and as I descended, I joined a gathered throng enjoying the summer sun at a recommended bar.

From my arrival at the airport and border control (the Germans are the most bureaucratic when it comes to entering their country), to the marvellous welcome at the Hotel Saxx Nürmberg, part of the Sorat group, and chatting with people around the city, I too found it to be a sociable and affable place.

The view from the Imperial Castle, built by Conrad III and Frederick I, is delightful, and twilight gives it a romantic hue.

Of course, when one mentions Nuremberg, the trials that took place between 1945 and 1949 come to mind.

Armed with the Nürmberg Card, which gives free admission to the most popular museums and sights as well as free public transportation, I set off walking along the Pegnitz River, enjoying a glorious sunny day with cyclists and runners greeting me as I watched the flies dart in and out of the water. It was a pleasant stroll to the Memorium Nürmberg Prozesse, ‘Nuremberg Memorial Trials', a plain-looking building where the trial of major war criminals began in Court Room 600 in the Nuremberg Palace of Justice on November 20, 1945.

Room 600 is stark, and one feels the seriousness ingrained within the chamber. Despite many tourists in the room, there was a strange hush that signified the impact of Germany’s past. I sat down and took in the surroundings, and it was then that the harsh realities sank in, prompting me to question if we had truly learnt anything from Hitler’s and the Nazis' war crimes. The exhibition on the top floor was one of the most comprehensive I have seen in recent years, providing background information about the Nuremberg Trials with a plethora of historical audio (all languages catered for) and video recordings that do convey a vivid impression. The International Military Tribunal's Nuremberg Principles require some time to fully comprehend, and the exhibition served as a sobering reminder that these heinous crimes continue to occur in the present day. The Memorium is closed on Tuesdays.

As I departed, the sun brightened my mood. I took the local subway back to the train station, then strolled leisurely through the city centre on my way to my hotel, conveniently located just off the main Market Square.

Food and Drink Essen & Trinken

There's plenty to do and see in this south German city, and paradoxically, it's gaining a reputation as a fine dining destination. My excellent tour guide, Frau Radtke, confidently informed me in her native German—we had agreed that there was no point in her speaking English as I would never improve on translation and speaking the language—that a fine dining campaign was underway to increase awareness. She wasn’t wrong. A superb chef who certainly knows his craft prepared a delectable gastronomic feast for me; read my review here Fine Dining In Germany At Jøwåy In Nuremberg



Rotbier & Wurst

Nuremberg is famous for its red beer and bratwurst, so Frau Radtke suggested we stop off at a local brewery, Hausbrauerei Altstadthof, to try Nuremberg's tasty combination.

She told me that Nuremberg has been brewing red beer since the Middle Ages, and the breweries follow the Reinhgeitsgebot, which is a purity law for beer. It means the use of ingredients is carefully regulated. The law dates back to 1303, when it stated that breweries could only use barley malt for their beer.

A slow fermentation process at low temperatures creates the famous red beer, causing the yeast to sink to the bottom once added; hence, the process is called bottom-fermented beer.

Well, when in Nuremberg... I picked up my tankard and was pleasantly surprised—not too strong, but a distinct flavour with a hint of sweetness and not at all too malty.

Encouraged by Frau Radtke I also opted for eight finger-sized bratwurst. These sausages came with sauerkraut and dunkelbrot. The range of breads in Germany is generally nice, but the dark, dense rye bread that accompanies this dish and is typical of the region may be a little dry for British tastes.

Satisfied but in need of a digestif, I chose a pear schnapps from the region, which prepared me for another local speciality, Nuremberg Lebkuchen. The famous Elisen gingerbread is sweet and spicy with hints of Christmas flavors, and the recipe dates back more than 600 years.

I also sampled the Franconian tapas at Die Wirtschaft, a well-liked hangout for locals after work, and enjoyed fine dining at Fränk'ness, conveniently located near the Art and Design Museum, where chef Alexander Herrmann showcased his selection of local wines and cuisine. Chicken with roasted almonds and a fine regional rosé were more than enough. The combination of the chicken broth and the creamy potatoes made for an ideal lunch.

Kunst & Kultur - Art & Culture

If your stay is a flying visit, then work out which museums you want to visit, as Nuremberg has copious galleries and exhibitions. Nuremberg was home to Albrecht Dürer, a painter, graphic artist, and theoretician in art history who lived from 1471 to 1528. In 1945, his house miraculously survived the city's bombing. Today you can visit the large, half-timbered house thought to have been built around 1420.

During the Middle Ages, the Imperial Castle was one of the Holy Roman Empire's most important fortified imperial palaces. The museum, which is part of the Germanisches Nationalmuseum, is worth a visit, as are the gardens that surround the castle, a kaleidoscope of colour.

The Toy Museum, with its collection of Lehmann tin toys, and the 500-year-old Executioner's House, situated above the river, cater to a wide range of tastes. For many centuries, it served as the official residence for Nuremberg's executioner and his family.

As someone who admires Gerhard Richter’s art, I took myself off to the eye-catching Art and Design Museum, which was fascinating; its curved glass-faced rises over the mediaeval city walls. Walking through small exhibition spaces filled with stimulating exhibits, surrounded by paintings, sculptures, and photographs ranging from 1945 to the present, challenged me to think differently. The exhibition is thoughtfully designed, and I was disheartened to have to depart prematurely, as I had an appointment with Dr. Sonka Mißfeldt at the Germanisches National Museum, the largest cultural institution in the German-speaking world, boasting 1.5 million objects. It offers a fascinating glimpse into the cultural heritage of Europe. Dr. Mißfeldt wanted to take me on a journey through 600,000 years of European art, culture, and history, but once again time got in the way, so I just touched the surface.

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• Michael Wolgemut painting by Durer Photo: Germanisches National Museum©
• The Behaim Globe Photo: Germanisches National Museum©
• Photo: Germanisches National Museum©
• The monastery Photo: Germanisches National Museum©

The museum began as a monastery, which remains a key feature, and all the exhibits are beautifully balanced. It takes at least a day to explore and immerse yourself in some of the most stimulating exhibits. Space doesn’t allow me to do it justice. The Behaim Globe, the oldest surviving globe in the world that predates Columbus's discovery of the New World, is housed in the museum, now listed as UNESCO world documentary heritage. There is an interactive visual display to help visitors understand some of the hieroglyphics. Peter Henlein's so-called Heinlein watch, considered the oldest surviving portable 'pocket watch' in the world, stands next to it. Dr. Mißfeldt told some anecdotal stories about it before we moved on to a small area of the wonderfully designed museum. Musical instruments, toys, clothes, decorative arts—I would urge you to visit. The portrait that Dürer made of his teacher, Michael Wolgemut, kept my attention for five minutes. There's also a delightful courtyard café.

Churches

Inside the roof at St. Sebald Kirche

Looking down on the nave at St. Sebald Kirche

Making up a trio of excellent and genial tour guides on my visit was Fiona Herbland, whom I met at St. Sebald Kirche, where the one-hit wonder composer known for his Canon in D, Pachelbel, was an organist. Together, we ascended the church's 234 steps, pausing to gaze down from galleries into the nave and explore the roof. Finally, we burst into glorious sunshine, rewarded with fantastic views over the city!

The knowledgeable Frau Haberland, with a superb command of English, gave me fascinating snippets about the city once at the top. Seeing the church’s structures and the vaulting up close made the climb a worthwhile venture, even though I did feel slightly nervous at times. At the end, I parted ways with Frau Herbland, who was about to embark on an underworld tour, exploring the city's water tunnels.

The Market place

I descended with enough time for the short walk back to the Market Square to catch the Männieinlaufen glockenspiel chime at noon. The carillon in the town hall tower recreates two events from Munich's history: Firstly, it recreates the wedding of Duke William V and Renate of Lorraine in February 1568. A knight's tournament honouring the bride and groom took place on Marienplatz. The Bavarian knight triumphed over his opponent from Lorraine.

The Schäffler dance is performed on the lower floor. After a serious plague epidemic, the barrel makers were said to have been the first to venture out onto the streets and cheer up the population frightened by the plague by dancing.

Then I turned the ring on the beautiful fountain and made a wish before my final trip to watch dusk approach and soak up the atmosphere outside Café Bar Wanderer und Bieramt am Tiergärtnertor, mingling and chatting with the locals and visitors over a local beer.

I wish I had known that I needed more time, or that there were plenty of fine dining eateries to try. I was unable to sample the Michelin-starred restaurant due to time constraints. However, with a city as beautiful as Nuremberg and so easily accessible from the UK, I might consider visiting for the Christmas Markets, which are among the oldest and undoubtedly the most famous in Germany.

I stayed at the Sorat Hotel Saxx, conveniently located in the old town and the perfect starting point for exploring Nuremberg. The front-of-house team was efficient and friendly.

I also used the NurenbergCard+Furth, which entitles me to a single visit to all museums and sights, as well as free local travel.

It was simple to get from the airport; I chose to take the subway, which took only 12 minutes from the city, and a cab, which took only 10 minutes back to the airport, owing to the early flight.