lifestyle
Fine Dining: Sous le Nez
“A Leeds Institution”
I recently returned from a first-time trip to Paris, which was a departure from my usual gastronomic adventures in Barcelona and other parts of Spain. So, on the prowl to find the best French onion soup and poivre sauce, we began exploring to find a rival to an old favourite while being daunted but also very excited indeed. The trip and food were delicious, yet I was left feeling somewhat confused; the soups I tried were all so different, ranging from colour, flavour, amount, and viscosity, all tasty but somehow just missing something, and the poivre sauces not hitting the spot either, so on my return to Leeds, I had to return to an old haunt to sample their offering to see if really Paris hadn’t beaten the top spot for two of my favourite classic French dishes.
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Approaching Sous Le Nez, one of Leeds’ longest-serving restaurants, serving up its dinners for over 30 years, felt like I was about to see an old friend for the first time in ages—a subterranean catch-up—and I couldn’t wait for that first food hug. I’d booked my favourite table, which is number 25, for those wanting to sit in the little private nook, where it feels like you are just casually dining at home and can easily forget there are other diners. I’d booked on the first day of their reopening after the Christmas break for an early dinner and was surprised at how many people came flowing in after us. This restaurant is an institution where it seems most guests are long-time regulars and are greeted with the old "great to see you again" welcome. Experiencing new cuisines and restaurants can sometimes be a chore, and with feelings of apprehension, sometimes a sure thing is exactly what you need.
Always greeted with warmth and charm, the team at Souz lez nez are all long-standing and know exactly what they are doing; it’s not slick and precise; it just feels like being served at a friend’s house where the food is the star of the show. Even though the décor is worn and dated, it's just right. Modern fixtures and fittings would detract from the experience. All terracotta tiles and dark wood furniture are rustic at their best. The food and company do the talking.
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The menu is varied, yet it still includes staples that haven't been removed despite potential uproar from patrons. They offer an early bird 3-course menu with or without wine, reassuringly expensive but not so out of reach for a special occasion dinner or business lunch, where they also offer a bar menu so you can either sit in the bar area for a more informal setting as well as having the option to dine in the restaurant. It’s a restaurant I can happily dine at alone while reading a book or for a more decadent experience with a partner of choice.
Due to its location, it’s a restaurant that doesn’t rely on its location but on its reputation, and it’s the epitome of a hidden gem located in the business district of the centre existing under the Quebecs Hotel.
The extensive wine list shows their adaptability and willingness to draw inspiration from around the world, not just France, and ensures there is something for everyone, regardless of budget.
We opted for a set menu, and I dined à la carte so we could get a sense of everything that was on offer. I didn’t stray at all and went straight for an order of the French onion soup, followed by the 28-day-aged ribeye steak with peppercorn sauce, and we also ordered the pigeon breast and bacon pearl barley fricassee with charred baby leek, followed by roasted free-range Yorkshire belly pork, chorizo and sage potato rosti, sun-dried tomato and apple chutney with a tomato and oregano jus from the Menu du Soir.
Before your meal starts, you are offered a cute warm bread roll from the platter, where I have been known to ask for a white and a brown roll. The only gripe I have is I wish it was served with salted French butter rather than Yorkshire butter. The one thing the French do best is butter. Don’t stray
The soup reminded me of an old friend I'd been longing to reconnect with, enveloping me in its warm, delectable embrace. Sublime from the first spoonful to the last—it’s, in my opinion, perfect in every way and the best of the best. On cold winter's days, I often find myself daydreaming about this dish. It’s not too thick, served to the brim with a cheesy toasted oval of joy on top and the perfect ratio of soup to onions and, more importantly, always consistently fabulous. The steak was delicious, perfectly cooked, served with another glorious sauce. Their peppercorn sauce is something to behold: creamy, sweet, rich, peppery, silky, and bang on every time. The chips are divine, and all main dishes are always served with a little bowl of buttery seasonal vegetables, so when it comes to portion size, you are never left needing more, wanting yes, but never needing. I wish I could get the recipe for the sauce, as I’ve tried many times to recreate it and never found another as good anywhere I’ve been. In the past, I've even brought my own Tupperware and placed an order for takeout. I even love the offering of a gesture of flat-leaf parsley that they place on top of the steak, which I always get extra of, as the flavour of the parsley against the sauce and steak is bob on. The dish is both simple and indulgent.
The pigeon was pink and nestled among the fluffy, flavourful pearl barley. The food conjures up images of constant, big, silver pans of rolling, flavourful stock on the stove in the kitchen, which gives all the dishes a tasty foundation on which they build their Yorkshire/French-inspired dishes.
The Col Di Sasso wine from Banfi,not known for its greatness, just an all round great wine for the price, perfectly complemented everything. They did get the vintage wrong, but forgiven as the wine list was due to be updated.
This Tuscan wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, boasts a nose full of raspberry, spice, and plum, which leads to a soft, fruity, intense finish. It is a delightful wine that perfectly complements my selections.
We shared the dessert and opted for another one of their staples, which is the croissant bread and butter pudding, candied fruit, and vanilla pod crème anglaise. A cute little tower of soft and crispy joy sat in just the right amount of anglaise, which was devoured before a photo could even be taken.
Sous le Nez’s offering is unique to Leeds, which is why, after 30 years, it's still going strong. For me, that says everything about the quality of service and food it has on offer.
The lighting in the venue often makes it challenging to capture the food in photos, but sometimes it's preferable to forego the effort and fully immerse yourself in the experience. The clientele, on the whole, are not really the social media types, and I love that. I always feel a sense of maturity when I visit this place, where I witness generations of families celebrating special occasions, couples quietly enjoying a romantic date night, and groups of grey-haired men with tan shoes engaging in conversation while sipping cognacs.
Anyone can easily blend in, regardless of their background. So the next time you feel a bit decadent or fancy a decent lunch, get yourselves down to this classic Leeds institution for a rustic, French-inspired, Yorkshire-led experience that epitomises the saying, "If it’s not broken, don’t fix it."