Spellbinding Northumberland

Harry Potter was the magician the world came to love whilst Alnwick Castle in Northumberland, was immortalised forever as the backdrop to Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry.

But, long before JK Rowling had even penned her first novel, there was another ‘wizard’ occupying the space she would later inherit, and his version of Hogwarts became known internationally as the ‘Palace of the Modern Magician’: like Harry Potter’s, it was also in Northumberland!

The call to re-visit this beautiful county came from the Tempus Boutique Hotel, part of the Charlton Hall Estate, north of Alnwick, but still around 18 miles short of the equally mystical Holy Island and Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve.

However, a chance conversation helped shape our travel plans, making the 72-hour visit even more magical.

“Don’t forget to go to Cragside,” said my friend John.

“What’s that?” I quizzed. He was flabbergasted that I had never heard of it and, 24 hours later, I was even more surprised when 91-year old Auntie Pat confirmed that it was not only amazing, but that she had been seven times: had I been sleep walking!

So, considering that it was just a few miles from our hotel, it made sense to make the slight diversion to Rothbury near Morpeth as we drove North, ahead of our 3pm check in.

Wow! How on earth could I have missed this National Trust gem?

Dubbed Britain’s original ‘smarthome’ and visited by aristocrats and Royalty alike, Cragside was home to Lord and Lady Armstrong, herself an amazing horticulturist.

But he was an engineering giant, shipbuilder, probably the world’s first international arms dealer, inventor and millionaire: when he died in 1900 he was said to have left something in the region of £104m, making him one of the richest men in Europe.

He even bought Bamburgh Castle and gave it a £1m facelift in the late 1890’s!

But his real legacy was Cragside where he and his wife planted millions of trees creating not only spectacular gardens, but also helping develop the first home in the world to be powered by hydro- electricity.

It was also full of gadgets: a central heating system, hydraulic lift, a water powered roasting spit in the kitchen along with a dumb waiter and early dishwasher, heated glasshouses and incandescent lightbulbs throughout the building: little wonder that Victorian England dubbed it the Palace of the Modern Magician.

“Think I need a cuppa after all of that,” said Mrs H, so off we headed to our hotel some 30 minutes from Cragside.

Situated in the heart of the Charlton Hall Estate, The Tempus boutique hotel has to be one of Northumberland’s most stylish properties with its classy bar and restaurant.

Taking its name from the Latin translation of the word “time”, The Tempus – which is located in striking distance of Alnmouth Beach and the market town of Alnwick - features 33 bold and creatively decorated bedrooms, a restaurant and bar serving seasonal British classics and signature cocktails.

Once a set of 18th century honey-coloured stone barns belonging to a former famer, The Tempus is made up of a collection of outbuildings that includes the Tempus Main Hotel, Farm Cottage, Farmhouse, Pole Barn and Lookout.

Rooms
But it is Edinburgh’s Jeffrey Interiors that have given the hotel its ‘wow factor’ and, if you have any doubts, look no further than the striking wallpapers!

Bold, bonkers and completely unique, each room comes with a mix of fantastical House of Hackney wallpapers, plush velvet sofas, 1970s-style headboards, gold fixtures, furnishings and leopard print wardrobes, meaning no two stays or rooms are the same!

Mrs Hopkins was trying to decide if she had just entered an LSD infused state as she gazed around. Lying on the plush double bed she uttered words that would strike horror into any man’s heart: “I love these wallpapers, particularly the ones on the ceiling. Could we get them in our bedroom?”

“Not really darling, we live in a small, two-bedroomed semi-detached bungalow. Not sure it would work in exactly the same way.”

The conversation was ended swiftly. “Dinner darling?”

Our evening meal that night was a delectable delight. At the heart of The Tempus lies The Orangery, the hotel’s restaurant that showcases the region’s culinary heritage.

Head Chef Alistair Weightman, who has previously worked in the Michelin-starred kitchens of Tom Kerridge and James Martin, takes guests on a journey through the flavours of Northumberland and its borders, with a lunch and evening à la carte menu that evolves with the seasons.

For those seeking the comfort of tradition, Tempus classics feature familiar favourites such as fish and chips, a club sandwich and, as you might expect, a good old-fashioned pie.

The hotel also offers an afternoon tea experience, Wednesday – Saturday from 2:30 - 4:45pm.

After sleeping soundly in our junior suite – there are 17 bedrooms in the main hotel - with its ensuite bathroom, walk-in shower and freestanding bath, we decided to continue our Lord and Lady Armstrong journey with a visit to England’s finest coastal castle at Bambrugh, still home to the Armstrong family following its 1894 restoration and earlier purchase, by the family’s illustrious ancestor.

From Anglo Saxon citadel to impenetrable Norman stronghold, Bamburgh was home to the kings of Northumbria and the first castle to fall to cannon fire in the Wars of the Roses.

However, these days the attraction, with its plush, historical rooms, not only recounts the castle’s amazing history, but still provides a home to the Armstrong family whilst, periodically, providing a backdrop to Netflix’s hit series, The Last Kingdom.

“Gosh it’s been two days of history,” said Mrs H as we headed down to the Tempus dining room for breakfast the following morning.

“Yes, and we’ve got a bit more yet,” I added.

We’d managed to squeeze in a quick drink in the hotel bar the night before – open daily for guests to sip on signature cocktails, a crisp glass of wine or enjoy their morning coffee. We’d even admired the The Terrace and garden Tipi, however, at that moment, breakfast was our focus.

“After we’ve finished eating we need to get our skates on because we have to beat the Holy Island tides, meaning we have from 8.50am until 3.25pm this afternoon to cross the causeway, do what we need to do and get back to the mainland," I said.

"Get that granola down your neck and let’s head out!”

By 10.10am we were parked up and walking the short distance to Lindisfarne Castle.

This National Trust property and former fort, was converted into a holiday home by the founder of Country Life magazine, Edward Hudson, who desperately desired a holiday retreat away from the chaos of London life.

He engaged the services of celebrated architect, Edward Lutyens who, in turn asked his gardening guru friend, Gertrude Jekyll to design the delightful walled garden that sits to the side of the main castle.

In the main town there are several tea rooms and ice cream shops to enjoy as well as Lindisfarne Priory and its picturesque neighbour, St Mary the Virgin Church.

At 3pm, with just 25 minutes left in which to exit the island before the tide took us prisoner, we bade a fond farewell to Holy Island and began the 156 mile drive back to Leeds.

It had been a spellbinding visit in which we had learned about two magicians: Harry Potter and his real-life equivalent, Lord Armstrong. Another visit that had left a lasting impression on the two of us.

Absolutely magic!

The Hotel - www.thetempus.co.uk
Room prices at The Tempus start from £150 per room, or £180 for dinner, bed and breakfast. There are dog friendly Superior Kings, Boutique and Junior Suites and Family rooms with a king-sized bed and two twin beds. Located across the gravel path from reception is Farmhouse (six bedrooms), Farm Cottage (two bedrooms), Pole Barn (three bedrooms) and The Lookout (one bedroom) which can either be rented exclusively or on a room-by-room basis, making these a great option for family trips.

FAST FACTS
Cragside - www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/north-east/cragside
Rothbury, Morpeth, Northumberland, NE65 7PX
Opens 11am-4pm. Adults £25.30. Children £12.70
Bamburgh Castle - www.bamburghcastle.com
Bamburgh Castle Bamburgh, Bamburgh NE69 7DF
Open 7 days a week until November 3rd: 10am-5pm. Last entry 4pm. Cash free site. Adults £17. Children (5-16) £8.50. Various offers. Car parking not included.
Lindisfarne Castle - www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/north-east/lindisfarne-castle
Opens 10am-5pm. Adults £10. Children £5.