Be Blown Away On The Wild Atlantic Way

When is the last time you were blown away by the power of nature and sense of wellbeing in the great outdoors?

Be prepared to be transported to Ireland’s windswept Wild Atlantic Way - one of the world’s most iconic road trips by our Time for Life trio – correspondent Sharon, photographer Steve, and golden retriever, Bracken.

Imbued with Irish charm, inclement weather, and copious amounts of Guinness, this is an experience where the forces of nature will leave their imprints in your minds and hearts forever.

At the Mercy Of The Atlantic

Cliffs of Kerry


We anticipated being captivated by the diversity of this 1,600-kilometre West coast adventure on our motorhome trip – and we were not disappointed.

Starting at the Inishowen Peninsula in the north and ending at the picturesque town of Kinsale, County Cork, in the south - the dominant factor of the Wild Atlantic Way is the Atlantic ocean which covers 20% of the earth’s surface.

Wet weather gear and warm clothes are a must for packing, whatever time of year, Also, be prepared to be exposed to the ocean’s elements at Signature Points (key stop off points) including Malin Head, the most northerly point of mainland Ireland.

The backdrop for scenes in the film ‘Star Wars: The Last Jedi,’ Malin Head has some of the largest sand dunes in Europe.

It is also a perfect location to marvel at the Northern Lights which, sadly, did not manifest themselves during our explorations.

Lighting The Way

We did, however, see a plentiful supply of stunning lighthouses along the route. Ireland’s 80 beacons of light include the beautiful one on the northernmost point of the Fanad Peninsula at Fanad Head.

There is a fabulous bar and coffee stop which affords glorious views of the lighthouse and the rugged coastline. As everywhere, we received an effusive welcome.

Life’s a Beach

They say variety is the spice of life, and we stopped over at an eclectic mixture of campsites, car parks, country parks and desolate, unspoilt beaches along the 1,600-kilometre stretch.

Camping sites - some with few facilities - were on the whole overpriced at 25-30 euros for one night coupled with a massive a mark-up for dilapidated washing machines.

Making the most, we took advantage of the more cost-effective and ‘colourful’ options including parking outside the police station in Killarney town centre – and the docks at Galway.

Galway Docks

As you would expect, noise levels overnight at the diverse parking spots differed dramatically. Among the ‘livelier’ stop overs was Donegal town where we camped at the harbour next to the river.

The town was heaving on our Saturday night there - everyone was out for a good time with most music bars packed and restaurants vying to lure punters in with their clam chowder soup and freshly caught Donegal Bay mussels. If you are seeking a peaceful drink, this party town is not for you.

After the town centre mayhem where we made many ‘new best friends’ who had meticulously supported all the local bars for the best part of the day, it was wonderful to walk just five minutes back to the motorhome at the harbour car park which was surprisingly peaceful.

Island Hopping

Because we were not sufficiently windswept on The Wild Atlantic Way, we took a day trip from Galway Bay, Ireland’s festival capital, to the Aran Islands. The sea was very choppy and anyone feeling seasick was told to throw up into it. Despite that, it was a great excursion to a quaint, traditional island.

On returning to Galway, the nightlife scene was in full swing with folk music belting out from packed bars from instruments including fiddles, drums, harps, and tin whistles. Locals and visitors let their hair down, singing along and dancing in confined spaces to the contagious beat.

Bohemian Beauty

Voted among the world’s top six friendliest cities, Galway’s charm is contagious – as are its sunsets.

A poem called Galway Bay, composed by an unnamed local doctor in 1947 and made famous by Bing Crosby, encapsulates its beauty:

“If you ever go across the sea to Ireland
Then maybe at the closing of your day
You will sit and watch the moon rise over Claddagh
And see the sun go down on Galway Bay.”

Fortified by …The Black Stuff

A sojourn around the Wild Atlantic Way would not be complete without devouring Guinness – known as 'The ‘Black Stuff'. After all, it would be rude not to!

An intrinsic element of Ireland’s staple diet, culture and history, Guinness was born when Arthur Guinness bought a small brewery in Dublin in 1759.

Almost three centuries later, the Irish are supping 1.5 billion pints a year – the world’s third biggest country for Guinness consumption after the UK and Nigeria.

The Guinness Factory in Dublin was our first port of call, and a great way to learn about the production processes.

The section featuring former slogans and adverts is particularly enjoyable, as is the token pint of the Black Stuff in the 360-degree rooftop bar with superb views of the party city - a great craic!

Savouring the velvet nectar is also a well-deserved treat after hiking up cliffs and being rewarded with knockout views.

We felt as though we were on the edge of the world at the stunning Slieve League cliffs, another ‘Signature Point’ and exceptional feat of nature.
Ascending the six hundred metres high cliffs was an exhilarating experience. Sharing their beauty in streaming sunshine - an unusual occurrence - with fellow walkers from all over the world was incredibly special.

Familiar sights around the cliff are Sarah Jessica Parker and her husband Matthew Broderick who have a holiday home nearby. Locals relished telling us how the Sex and the City icon swaps her Manolos for ‘flatties’ when cliff walking.

The tea shop at the ticket office is a must for a well-deserved brew and obligatory scone with lashings of jam and cream at the end of the cliff walk.



Top among my highlights were the dramatic Cliffs of Kerry which tower over 1000ft above the Atlantic. Their origin dates back four hundred million years ago when they were formed in a desert setting. From here you can see Puffin Island and Skellig Rocks, one of just three of Ireland’s UNESCO world heritage sites.

Past Troubles and Future Hopes

A trip to Ireland is not complete without remembering the country’s turbulent history – a salutary reminder of which is The Doagh Famine Village in County Donegal.

We were absorbed by the outdoor museum which captures the true essence of the hardships endured during the 18th century and the famine crisis and subsequent events through to the present day.

Cultural displays include original houses, a taste of potcheen, which packed a punch - and an insight into Irish Wakes, a send-off for the deceased.

A more recent reminder of bitter battles on is the grave of Lord Mountbatton overlooking the Atlantic in County Sligo.

On August 27, 1979, Lord Mountbatton, the second cousin of the late Queen Elizabeth II, was killed by an explosion on his boat while out on a family fishing trip near their home.

Casualties of what was among the most horrific events to face the royal family included his wife Lady Bradbourne and their grandsons Nicholas and Paul aged 14 and 15.

Connemara

The Wild Atlantic Way gives you time to step back from life’s hustle and bustle and absorb and reflect on its spectacular and diverse landscapes spanning bogs, lakes, mountains, and coastal treasures.

We felt an inner peace and at one with nature, often finding it challenging to express in words the raw beauty of the diverse landscapes.

They included a detour to the Lakes of Killarney and its magnificent National Park where we walked among glorious mountains, lakes, and woodland.

Windswept Finale

A great believer in the adage that the journey is more important than the destination, excitement at reaching the end of the Wild Atlantic Way was tinged with sadness.

We also had not realised the tragic back story behind the wild and windy location at The Old Head, Kinsale, Here the ocean liner the Lusitania was torpedoed by a German U Boat on May 7, 1915 with the loss of 1,198 lives.

The diversity of emotions this incredible adventure with nature evoked made it an incredible and stimulating experience packed with hairpin bends, heartbreaking history - and Irish hospitality and fortitude.

While far from wanting to put a dampener on things, if you are contemplating this exploration, remember the Irish weather is, notoriously constant - lashing down with rain and blowing a hooley!