Fine Dining In Germany At Jøwåy In Nuremberg

Who would have thought? To be honest, my dining experiences in Germany have been somewhat uneventful. Only rescued by enjoying the hospitality of Thomas and Sandra Droßler and their family in Siegen, staunch friends since my university days; Frau Droßler shows her knowledge of herbs and spices and skill at menu planning, which she puts to excellent use when she creates a stunning annual Silvester meal, usually for about 16 friends. I often tease Thomas, who, by the way, would make an excellent sommelier if he gave up being a leading architect, about the lack of fine dining in Germany.

But I am Germany's second largest city in the state of Bavaria, Nuremberg, and any misconceptions I had have vanished, as this is a city rapidly gaining a reputation for its fine dining.

On a glorious summer evening, I walked along Nuremberg's picturesque streets, across lovely bridges spanning the Pegnitz River, the sun shimmering off the decorative houses at various angles, highlighting this city's glorious beauty. Lots of postcard views.

Joahnnes Hannweg is an exciting young talented chef who has mastered his trade at Jøwåy, an unassuming pale salmon pink house on Hutergasse, a small restaurant I nearly walked by. Missing it would have been disastrous, as once I entered the door, took in the modern Scandi décor, and received a warm welcome from the front of the house, I knew I was in for a culinary and gastronomic feast.

This all-round experience was a delight. I chose the tasting menu with matching wines. Chatting with Hannweg, he had passion and enthusiasm, but like his approach to cooking, it was considered nothing overpowering. He is ardent about showcasing locally sourced ingredients, Franconian beers, and wine.

At Jøwåy he champions a no-waste policy, which Hannweg told me gives him a bigger space for creativity. Silo, in the UK, Brighton's eco-chic restaurant that pioneered zero-waste dining, serves as his inspiration. According to its website, its unique philosophy towards food revolves around using healthy ingredients in their whole form, making foods from scratch, cutting out food miles, reusing wherever possible and eliminating waste, and serving menus made from locally sourced produce. Hannweg likes to constantly experiment with new techniques and ingredients. He also admires Fergus Henderson.

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• Amuse Bouche
• Tomato, jalapeño, celery dish
• Ceviche turbot, marinated mango and lime
• Saffron zucchini
• Duck and red cabbage parfait
• Hay forest ice cream
• Confectionery

Two amuse bouches were neatly presented. The first was dehydrated beets that had a neat piquancy, and when combined with buttermilk and white garlic oil, it was a flavoursome delicacy, with the flavours combining perfectly. The second was a smoked mozzarella with tomato berries; both had a wow factor on the palette. A white herb cream complemented the herb focaccia, which had a subtle flavour.

The tomato, jalapeño, celery dish was exquisite. The dish consisted of a tomato gazpacho, iced tomatoes, and a tomato crisp. Cleverly assembled and restrained, the jalapeño offered a slight kick, the heat and the cold came together, with the celery offering a crunch; the flavours did not interfere with each other; each took on its own individuality and mixed with the different parts so that it offered many different aspects to such a well-crafted dish. With a 2022 Stortz-Nicolaus fruit wine with strong minerals, it turned out to be a superb accompaniment.

The ceviche turbot, marinated mango and lime with wild herbs and pomegranate gel, was deliciously light, and it was well complemented with a Rainer Sauer Altfränkischer Satz 2021. Once again, the chef cooked the fish to perfection, ensuring that the presentation and flavour combinations were harmonious.

The colour, taste, and hint of black garlic in the saffron zucchini with cashew and Austrian eagle Grüner Veltliner 2022 captivated me. The textures were balanced, the flavours were in harmony, and the seasoning added warmth to this stylish and sophisticated dish.

Hannweg’s modern take on a German classic (duck, red cabbage, potato dumplings) was chic, elegant, and tasteful. His spin, accompanied by a smooth Château Laroze Famille Meslin 2011, with its light tannin, included a piece of duck breast with red cabbage caviar, an equally superb red cabbage parfait, and a small potato tart. The taste of numerous spices evoked memories of Christmas markets, particularly the hint of cinnamon. The duck was tender.

What followed took me by surprise with the use of thyme. It was forest ice cream sitting on a thyme crumble with a watermelon reduction. The hay infusion, brown sugar, and caramel elements added a residual sweetness to the creamy ice cream; it worked well with the thyme, and the berries added a tartness. The dessert wine, Hans Wirsching Wigen, worked with the assembled ingredients.

The theatre was not ostentatiously presented; it was simple, effective, and flawless in its execution. I was presented with two small pieces of confectionery, a blood orange and cardamon jelly, and a small coconut coffee curry white chocolate, just as I was about to enjoy an expresso. I was advised to let it melt in my mouth, and I found it purely delectable. I only wish I could have bought some to bring home. A consummate meal that is a testament to Hennweg's craft skills in the kitchen

As I strolled home, blending with the people who were enjoying the late sunshine, sitting on bridges, drinking, and socialising, I reflected on a fine meal that had an equilibrium to it, dispelling my nonsensical misconceptions about dining out in Germany.

I can’t wait to return and treat Herr and Frau Droßler on their way down to Tergensee for their holidays.

Jøwåy

Opening hours
Sunday closed
Saturday 12:00 - 15:00
Monday - Saturday from 18:00

Kitchen:
Saturday 12:00 - 14:00

Monday - Saturday 18:00 - 21:00

For more information click here