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Greggs, Coffee & A Jaw-Dropping ‘Wakefield’ Moment!
An area of stories and history
I’d read about the fascinating story of Nostell Priory and the aspirations of the Winn family to enter aristocratic society, and I’d witnessed Ronald Moody’s brilliant sculptures at the Hepworth Wakefield, but it wasn’t until I sipped coffee at Greggs en route home that a specific aspect of Wakefield’s heritage hit me like a brick.
For there on the wall was a black and white photo of a Wakefield Civic Society ‘blue’ plaque. It read: ‘Noel Gay (1898-1954), lyricist and popular-song writer and composer of the “Lambeth Walk” was a chorister at Wakefield Cathedral in his teenage years.’
To anyone else it might have meant little but to me, as the man once picked to play the title role of Bill Snibson in Gay’s musical, Me and My Girl, at Leeds Grand Theatre, it was a magical moment: here was the man who wrote one of the country’s most famous cheeky cockney songs and I hadn’t even realised he was not only a Tyke, but also from Wakefield! What a missed PR opportunity all those years ago!
It was just one of several wonderful moments I experienced after foregoing a more ‘exotic’ weekend location to spend time in Yorkshire’s rhubarb capital.
And how glad I did for Wakefield is currently running a year-long programme of breathtaking spectacles, unique festivals, major events, and community-led activities, that celebrate everything the wider district has to offer from art, heritage, sport and music to food and drink.
The Chantry Chapel of St Mary, Wakefield, built between 1342 and 1356
And it doesn’t take long spy something of interest in this West Yorkshire city.
Even our journey to the Waterton Park Hotel, where we were staying for two nights, produced its own gem as Mrs H suddenly urged me to stop the car.
“It’s open!" she yelled.
"We’ve been wanting to go there for ages but it’s never open. It is today.”
And with that we were parked up and soon walking to the front door of the Chantry Chapel of St Mary on Wakefield Bridge.
Built between 1342 and 1356, it is just one of four bridge chapels still surviving in England.
It is also a wonderful example of medieval architecture and early Christianity, with its stone compositions and wonderful stained glass.
Inside Wakefield's history Chantry Chapel, one of only four 'bridge' chapels in England
“I didn’t know this place was like York,” said Mrs H, unaware that Wakefield had origins dating back to the time when Caesar was king pin. “Not quite York,” I replied, “but it is fascinating” and, before long, we were making another detour ahead of check in, this time with an impromptu visit to Sandal Castle.
Sandal Castle for 360 panoramic views of Wakefield
So, when my stonemason friend, Richard, euphemistically known as ‘Mr Jones’, called, he was quickly enthusing about the castle’s fortified structure and informing us about the role it played in the infamous Wars of the Roses: The Battle of Wakefield in 1460 between the House of York and the House of Lancaster saw Richard, Duke of York fall.
However, whilst it is no longer 1460, the castle ruins now afford an amazing 360-degree view of the city, so it is well worth the stair climb if only to catch the breeze and marvel at your surroundings.
Wakefield has always been known as a haven for Friday night drinkers, however, it is a city that has much more to offer than a pint of best and a whisky chaser!
The Theatre Royal for a start is a wonderful venue to visit but, just around the corner you can also take advantage of Wakefield Museum.
A hidden gem - Wakefield Museum
There you can view not only a myriad of fascinating exhibits dating back hundreds of years, but also learn about the Double Two shirt brand which transformed international male fashion with the introduction of the first ever shirt made from man-made fibres.
Shirts that conquered the world
Further afield Wakefield district is also home to the towns of Castleford, Pontefract and Ossett.
Formerly known for its trade in corn, coal mining and textiles, Wakefield is part of the famed Rhubarb Triangle, and holds an annual Rhubarb Festival every February.
In 2010, Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb – rhubarb grown within the Triangle - was given Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status after being recommended by DEFRA.
The district is also famous for the cultivation of liquorice, with a festival dedicated to it each year, and is the origin place of the famous Pontefract Cake.
A once proud mining area
Hardly surprising, therefore, that in 1988 the site of the former Caphouse Colliery in Overton was picked as a suitable location for the National Coal Mining Museum for England, which is now a wonderful piece of ‘living’ history (real former miners show you around!), cataloguing Margaret Thatcher’s infamous battle with miners in the early 1980’s and the subsequent demise of Britain’s coal industry. You can even take a train journey 140m underground as part of your historical education!
But, heavy industry to one side, you cannot mention Wakefield without including, in the same breath, the area’s two artistic giants: sculptors Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth.
The stunning Hepworth Wakefield
The latter is best remembered at the Hepworth Wakefield, opened in 2011 to house Wakefield’s art collection and provide a legacy for Barbara Hepworth in the town in which she was born.
The original Wakefield Art Gallery was established in 1934 and became one of the most forward-thinking galleries of its time, supporting artists including Hepworth and Henry Moore early in their careers.
Now, however, you have until November to check out the work of Jamaican born British artist, poet, broadcaster, educator and sculptor, Ronald Moody.
Ronald Moody the sculptor, not to be confused with the late Oscar nominee of the same name!
…..and, when you’re done, jump in the car and head slightly out of town to the Yorkshire Sculpture Park where Mr Moore will present himself in a body of work that people travel hundreds of miles to witness.
The Yorkshire Sculpture Park
As the city and wider district continues its journey to “amaze residents” and “inspire them” to discover the area in which they live as part of Our Year Wakefield District 2024, a range of groups have worked together to compile an ambitious programme of creative events across the year, and beyond: and there’s something for everyone.
When we were there, it was the ‘birth’ of The Hatchling, a huge dragon-like puppet which was paraded through town. Brainchild of the award-winning creative team at Trigger working with experts in puppetry, kites and immersive theatre, it had dozens of ‘operators’: amazing.
The Hatchling
The puppet’s starting point in the centre of town also afforded an opportunity to check out Wakefield’s wonderful cathedral.
Wakefield Cathedral - an oasis of calm in the city centre
…..and, the following day, after we’d checked out of our hotel, we had an opportunity to take in our final two sights:
The Art House – not far from Wakefield Museum – provides space and support so that artists, makers and creative businesses can develop their practice.
Nostell Priory - where 'time' has a special meaning
….whilst Nostell Priory remains one of the great houses of the north.
Built by the Winn family to show off their importance and support their climb up the social ladder, it is home to more traditional art and provides a wonderful window on time including one of John Harrison’s clocks.
For those who don’t know, Nostell estate was the birthplace of clockmaker, John Harrison, the amazing self-educated ‘artisan’ who solved the greatest scientific challenge of his age: the longitude problem.
And A Word From My Mates……
St John's North, Wakefield: an ideal location for period dramas
Actor: Mr White: “Tell everyone that they need to at least take a look at the area around St John’s North. It’s one of Wakefield’s most famous film locations and has been scene of loads of historic dramas including one I was in: ‘Jonathan Strange and Mr Norrell’”
Janet: Retired Wakefield Council worker: “I’d advise people to visit the Kings Arms pub at Heath Common. It still has gas lights inside. Fascinating place for lunch and a drink.”
And, there you have it, straight from the horse’s mouth and (my) personal experience.
Wakefield and its wider district is a wonderful place full of treasures, picturesque parks and heritage sites and buildings.
You may have heard of The Ridings Shopping Centre or The Wakefield Mile where drinking prowess is measured in pints: but maybe it’s time to take another look at Wakefield from a different angle and explore the under belly of this fascinating city and its rural outskirts.
FAST FACTS
Experience Wakefield
Everything you need to know about Wakefield, including opening times and happening events, can be found at the following website:
www.experiencewakefield.co.uk
And for more on the district’s year of celebrations, Our Year – Wakefield District 2024, head to:
www.ouryear24.com