Tucked away between Briggate and Lands Lane in cobbled Swan Street is one of the city’s hidden gems.

What may come to mind immediately is the City Varieties – the famous music hall and the oldest working theatre in the country – but this theatre would not have existed without the landlord of the White Swan in the mid-1800s.

The inn dates back to the mid-1700s, and above the pub, in the 1800s, was a singing room, the start of the theatrical tradition in Swan Street.

The theatre was founded by local pub landlord and benefactor Charles Thornton as an adjunct to the White Swan Inn, following on from the singing room.

The "Verts," as they are lovingly known to many, were originally called Thornton’s New Music Hall and Fashionable Lounge and later changed to the White Swan Varieties before eventually becoming the City Palace of Varieties.

Both the White Swan and the theatre are still very much part of the city’s heritage, and if you haven’t visited the White Swan, then you are missing out on part of Leeds’s history and also an excellent gastro pub that serves amazing food at very reasonable prices.

Whether it’s a pub lunch, an evening meal or a pre-theatre or post-work drink or snack – not forgetting Sunday lunch – The White Swan is perfection.

The exterior of The White Swan is welcoming, featuring heaters, a canopy, and comfortable seats and tables; sitting in the cobbled street of Swan Street gives you a nostalgic feeling, as if you could be back in Edwardian times with your eyes closed!

Once inside, I can honestly say that no other vintage gastropub has been as meticulously planned as The White Swan in order to retain its air of pure nostalgia.

On the walls are reminders of its strong theatrical connections, with posters dating back to the era of music halls and the more recent shows of the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s.

Set on different levels, the eating areas are more than well planned, giving a spacious feel with only a few tables in each area, some of which face into Swan Street. Adjacent to the bar is a larger seating area that also faces onto the street outside.

The mismatched 1950s dining chairs, a grand piano, and a large stocked bookcase add an intimate but homely feel to the place.

The White Swan is quite small in size – I always describe it as ‘small but perfectly formed’.

It was one of the coldest nights of the year, so my colleague and I yearned for hot food, and we were not disappointed by the menu choices.

I ordered the leek and potato soup that came with thyme croutons. The soup was piping hot and welcoming. It had a real flavour from the leeks, and the soup was smooth and tasty.

My colleague opted for the Breaded Brie Bites that came served with a chilli jam. It was all so well presented she didn’t want to dislodge the arrangement. It was a generous portion consisting of 5 large pieces of Brie. The cheese was hot on the inside and crispy on the outside, just as it should be, and the chilli jam was the perfect accompaniment and not too spicy.

You cannot visit a pub for a meal on an icy cold night without choosing a pie. In my case, it was steak and ale pie— and what a veritable feast it was. The plate was overflowing with seasonal vegetables, including cabbage, roasted carrots and parsnips, and came with a jug of hot gravy. I opted for chips to accompany my pie, but there is a choice of either chips or mash. My thick-cut chips were crispy on the outside and deliciously fluffy on the inside.

The pie itself was filled with pieces of delicious steak that were succulent and tender. The pie pastry was a dream, and I can honestly say this is one of the best pies I have ever tasted, and it comes highly recommended. On my plate was a jug of hot steaming gravy so I could add as much or as little as I wanted.

My colleague decided on the scampi. Again, it was a large portion and perfectly grilled, accompanied by half a lemon, some delicious homemade tartare sauce and a generous and tasty green salad.

Being rather self-indulgent, we also ordered a portion of onion rings, which for the cost was a great bargain. They were hot with crispy batter and just so yummy.

Later we ordered dessert, and my colleague could not believe the offering that arrived in the form of her apple crumble cheesecake. The presentation, taste and imagination that went into that dish were worthy of a five-star establishment.

The cake really tasted of apple crumble and was accompanied by a sweet raspberry sauce and, in contrast to the taste of that, a sorrel sorbet.

My choice of Panettone bread and butter pudding was a real showstopper. It was rich and sticky and yet smooth and tangy. I’ll be back for another of these some time.

After enjoying our dessert and a hot drink, we felt prepared to face the cold weather again, having experienced a truly excellent meal in every way and what can only be described as a memorable evening, thanks to the friendly and professional staff in the cosy and historic ambience of the White Swan.

The White Swan 5 Swan Street, Leeds LS1 6LG
Food served from 12pm-9pm – Monday – Saturday. Check times for Sunday lunch.
Bar: Mon/Tues/Wed/Thurs – 11.00am-11.00pm; Fri/Sat 11.00am – 12. Midnight; Sunday 11.00.10.30.
Off to the theatre (City Varieties or The Grand) Enjoy 20% off your bill. Just show your theatre ticket at the bar!
www.whiteswan.com