Experiencing the breathtaking wonders of Imperial Rome usually includes a few photo opps at the Colosseum or, indeed, the Trevi Fountain, however, there is a cheaper alternative but it does require thermal undies and a thick coat!

And, if foreign travel is not to your liking but history is, then fire up the Ford and head north on the A1 in the direction of Hadrian’s Wall, Northumberland, where you will experience life-affirming Roman history that will leave you in awe and with little doubt that each of us is merely a tiny speck on the timeline of life!

At the invite of QHotels, I found myself decamped at Slaley Hall Hotel Spa & Golf Resort, just on the outskirts of Hexham, where I was never in any doubt that this was simply going to be a ‘hotel stay’, because this beautiful former Edwardian country house, with a pedigree dating back to the turn of the 20th century, is not only the perfect place for the ultimate unwind, but is also at the heart of Roman Britain and Publius Aelius Hadrianus’ empire, or ‘Hadrian’ as he was known – member of the Roman elite and ultimate builder of walls!

Food

Snooze

...and more food!

Not that he ever wielded a trowel in anger but Hadrian was the man who rejected his predecessor’s policy of territorial expansion, choosing instead to focus on consolidating and securing the Empire's existing vast borders during his reign from 117 to 138, hence his 73-mile coast-to-coast wall stretching from Wallsend on the River Tyne in the east, to Bowness-on-Solway in the west!

And it was with this amazing feat of ancient civil engineering in mind that I found myself at Slaley Hall, the perfect 1,000-acre backdrop from which to learn about Hadrian and his quest to stop any march south by the unconquered ‘barbarian’ tribes of the north.


“Rugby’s more my sport,” said Samuel as he served us our evening meal, “but I do know that Slaley has a lot to be proud of when it comes to golf,” he added, before telling us that he was studying A levels and, hopefully, would soon have a place at one of the country’s universities specialising in sports science.

Time

Fore!

Tee!

Indeed, the resort's appeal is multi-faceted and for the golf enthusiast, Slaley Hall is legendary, boasting two 18-hole championship courses: the Hunting Course, famously known as the "Augusta of the North" and a former European Tour host, and the beautifully maintained Priestman Course.

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• Snooze

Samuel was excellent, mature beyond his years and we promised to leave him an online reference. “If I get enough testimonials, I win £60 quid at the end of the month,” he grinned before disappearing into the ether like Noël Coward’s blithe spirit!

Get The Abbey Habit!
Next morning we headed into Hexham to check out the region’s historic market town with its stunning Abbey, established in 674 AD, and ancient Old Gaol, one of the oldest purpose-built prisons in England, along with the market square’s medieval Moot Hall.

Hexham Abbey...

...and historic gaol.

The town also acts as a major gateway for tourists exploring the central section of Hadrian's Wall, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which lies just a few miles to the town’s north.

The weather was a little grim when we visited, and, feeling the afternoon chill, we began to contemplate how Roman legionnaires with roots firmly in warmer climes, might have coped with what would most certainly have been appalling winter weather all those centuries ago.

“It’s bloomin’ awful,” said Mrs H, “let’s go back to the hotel for afternoon tea.” I needed little persuasion.

The exceptional Gabrielle was on reception: I rapidly concluded that she must have achieved a First Class Honours in customer care, such was her smile, pleasant nature and total commitment to the person in front of her.

“I was a former professional ballet dancer,” she explained. However, an injury had shortened her initial career and, despite having trained and danced with some of the best ballet companies in the world, fate had now brought her home to her native Hexham and a new career in hospitality.

Slaley Hall’s very own resident prima ballerina now choreographs reception with all the skill and dexterity of Margot Fontaine!

We were shown into the elegant Drawing Room where afternoon tea is served daily, featuring savoury finger sandwiches, fruit scones with clotted cream, and assorted sweet treats, often with the option to upgrade to Prosecco or Champagne.

It was a relaxing moment, and afterwards we had ample time to sample the joys of the luxury Elemis spa and health club, which provided the perfect counterpoint of relaxation to the day’s inclement weather, offering a range of treatments, an indoor swimming pool, sauna and a steam room.

Next morning we were up bright and early following a good night’s sleep, enjoyed a hearty breakfast and set off for Housesteads Roman Fort near Hexham, said to be one of the best-preserved ‘ruins’ of its type along Hadrian's Wall.

Perched dramatically on the Whin Sill escarpment, the ruins offer astonishing views and a vivid glimpse into the lives of Roman soldiers on the empire's wild northern frontier.

Hadrian's Wall

Outer reaches of the Roman Empire

Here you can wander through the barracks, the hospital, and the famously well-preserved communal latrines, to truly appreciate this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A short walk along the Wall path leads you to the haunting Sycamore Gap, a beautiful natural dip that was once home to Britain's most photographed tree.

The beloved sycamore, known as the 'Robin Hood Tree after its 1991 film appearance alongside Kevin Costner and Morgan Freeman in Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves, was tragically felled in a senseless act of vandalism in September 2023.

Two men were later found guilty of criminal damage to both the tree and Hadrian's Wall, highlighting the devastating loss felt by many. Although the iconic canopy is gone, its stump remains, and the site has become a place of homage for environmentalists.

The now treeless Sycamore Gap

A new environmental shrine

A sign, mounted on a fence surrounding the tree, now reads: ‘Good news! This tree stump is sprouting’. We left with a sense of hope.

Collecting our bags back at the hotel, we checked out and headed south with just enough time to call at the Locomotion Museum at Shildon in County Durham. The town is the cradle of the railways and a major draw as the birthplace of the world's first public passenger steam railway.

Come on, baby,...

...do the Loco-Motion

...with me!

Part of the Science Museum Group, the museum offers free entry and houses a huge collection of locomotives, including a copy of Stephenson’s Rocket steam locomotive, the unique prototype Deltic and the experimental Advanced Passenger Train (APT-E).

We hadn’t quite made Manchester Airport or, indeed the warmer climes of Rome, however, Northumberland had proved itself a worthy contender to take on the might of Italy’s famous Colosseum!

It had taken just three hours to drive north and, not only had we paid homage to Britain’s industrial heritage in Shildon, but we had also enjoyed the hospitality of one of ‘Roman England’s’ finest hotels: Slaley Hall Hotel Spa & Golf Resort.

However, unlike the legionnaires of 117AD, we hadn’t had to endure the harsh snow of Rome’s most northerly point in the empire.

Instead, this ‘soldier’ (and wife) had been feted by one of the region’s finest hotels, sheltered from Whin Sill escarpment’s worst weather, and sampled a few cups of finest Earl Grey: more tea vicar?

FAST FACTS
www.slaleyhallhotel.com
www.nationaltrust.org.uk
Hadrian’s Wall & Housesteads Roman Fort
Near Bardon Mill, Hexham, Northumberland, NE47 6NN
www.locomotion.org.uk
www.theartrooms.co.uk
Sycamore Gap photo (with tree) courtesy of Jacky Al-Samarraie, The Art Rooms