A Yorkshireman's Eye - Train Travel in Canada

Phil Hopkins, known to many readers as one of the YT's principal theatre reviewers, has written extensively about his international travels during a writing career spanning more than 35 years.

Today, we hope you enjoy the fifth of his Canadian articles as he winds his way from Quebec City to Toronto, via Montreal, Ottawa and the famous Niagara Falls.

A Canadian rail journey is disconcerting for an Englishman; car attendants smile, the food is nice and, if you're struggling with your luggage, people fight to assist!

Breakfast is served!

And, if you happen to be in Quebec, even if it's a facially challenged attendant who serves you morning brekkie, rest assured, when your catering assistant - male or female - speaks in a broken French accent, you can be sure that you will melt into your seat quicker than the butter on an overheated croissant!

Taking the train in Canada can, at times, be more akin to boarding a plane back home, for not only do you sometimes check in your luggage, but there may also be a carousel at your destination station from where to collect bulky suitcases, unlike the UK where passengers pile on, fight for a seat, and pray that the bacon sarnie and tepid cuppa won't lead to semi-permanent bankruptcy!

And, depending what time of day it is, you might enjoy goat's cheese and herb frittas or even something as exotic as Italian roasted cod if your journey crosses lunchtime!

Checking in!

Despite being offered the opportunity to fly to my various destinations in Canada, I thought it would be more fun, and interesting, if I took the train.

But, in truth, it was with little expectation that I initially trudged off to Quebec City to experience my first journey with VIA Rail Canada.

Without sounding too gushing it was a different experience. The first shock was as I prepared to 'check in' for my journey to Montreal.

"'Av you got a bag?" said the lady assistant. I confirmed I had at which point she put a label on it, took my case and politely gestured me to a lounge area where everyone was sitting quietly. But aren't we all meant to stand on the platform, jockeying for position and making ready for the 'get a seat if you're lucky' lottery, I thought?

Oh no! When the train's ready - and the same was true of my journey from Montreal to Ottawa and all subsequent rail journeys - an attendant politely announced that 'your train is ready for boarding' and everyone civilly rose, walked the few metres to the waiting carriage and boarded. More often than not no cases, no chaos, no fighting and, certainly no standing! Even if you are on a train where luggage check-in is not required - usually where there's no luggage car - then a smiling platform attendant greets you at the door and always offers to assist. "Let's do this together," he smiled, grabbing half of my suitcase as I took the other half.

Once on board the carriage attendant then talks you through your emergency drill in the event of an accident; there's even a card in the pocket in front of your seat.....just like a real plane flight! Very novel. For a moment I tried to imagine the procedure on Virgin's London bound train. The screen of imagination remained blank!

But be warned VIA Rail Canada now weighs your luggage as you wait in line to board at each station. A member of staff can often be seen pushing a set of mobile scales around and, if you are over the allocation, you may well cop for an excess baggage charge. Is it because of limited storage space on 'non check in' journeys, or merely another money making opportunity? Who knows? One passenger commented: "I don't quite get it myself. I carry my baggage on and off the train and nothing's changed so why do I now get charged if the bag, that breaks my back, goes a little over the allowance?"

Nevertheless, I cannot say that I had one unpleasant experience on Canada's rail network, and I travelled both business and economy class at different times.

At one point I saw the rail conductor enter the carriage. "Tickets please," she chimed. When she got to me the bar code on mine would not scan. "I am sorree," she said, "now I will 'av to ask you to leeve the train." She paused, looking at my concerned face, then burst out laughing. "Of course, I am only joking," she reassured, "I sink it eez only my scanner zat is a problem!"

She swanned off chuckling as I polished off my exotic breakfast and as her equally bemused colleague reassuringly asked "more coffee?"

RAIL FACT BOX
Visit: http://www.viarail.ca/

Look out for Phil 's next editorial on Canada's capital, Ottawa!