Quebec City - A Heavenly Experience!

Phil Hopkins, known to many readers as one of the YT's principal theatre reviewers, has written extensively about his international travels during a writing career spanning more than 35 years.

Today, we hope you enjoy the second of his Canadian articles as he winds his way from Quebec City to Toronto, via Montreal, Ottawa and the famous Niagara Falls.

Quebec is a city for the pure of heart, and the legend goes that unless you see the spirit of Rose in the dewy mist of the Montmorency Falls, you are destined to follow a rocky road to Heaven!

She was the tragic maiden whose wedding was delayed when her love went to war. Rose watched for his return every day but was mortified when she eventually spotted her fiancé's body at the foot of the plummeting water.

And such was her heartbreak that she returned home, put on her wedding gown and threw herself from the Montmorency Falls. Her veil blew off and, where it landed, are now Le Voile De La Mariee, the Wedding Veil Falls. Only the pure of heart are ever destined to see her again!

My guide for the day Madame Michelle Demers recounted the story then sighed; I didn't need an explanation. L'Amour!

And how easy it is to fall in love with this beautiful, walled city which has been part of Unesco World Heritage since 1985, but which has its origins as far back as 1608 when it was founded by French explorer Samuel de Champlain.

For a moment you might think you were in France and it is not hard to understand why the so-called 'separatists' shouted long and hard when they thought their identity was being subsumed by English speaking Canada.

Europe In America

Now, on the surface at least, there appears to be a gentle truce whereby everyone lives happily alongside one another. But, there's no denying that Quebec IS French! In its food, its language and its Gallic attitudes. And long may it last for that uniqueness of character is the essence of its charm - Europe in North America!

"Quebec means 'there where the river narrows'" explained my host, pointing to the majestic St Lawrence river which is never far away from you in this once fortified centre of French culture, tossed between the British and their Gallic enemies on so many occasions throughout history.


And if you need proof of its 'European Flavour' then ask Hollywood's Leonardo DiCaprio. The final scene of his movie, Catch me if you can, in which he played international con artist and counterfeiter, Frank Abagnale Jr, was set in Europe.

"When he supposedly meets Tom Hanks in that picturesque church in France," beamed Ms Demers, "it was actually the church of Notre Dame De Victoires here in Place Royale!" she said. This gorgeous little square was completely re-built in the 1970's using original architectural plans from the 17th century.


Divided into upper (Haute-Ville) and lower town (Basse-Ville), the two areas of Quebec City - equally endearing - are connected by The Old Quebec Funicular, a much smaller version of Lisbon's but a little more quaint than Scarborough's two!


"The women here are also said to be the most beautiful," grinned Madame Demers. "When the King of France sent his 'Filles du Roi' (Women of the King) to Quebec in the 17th Century, he put up a dowry for each. The prettiest were taken by the men first and settled locally whilst the 'unchosen' moved on to Montreal!" The point was made!

The 'must sees' Are Endless

With just 48 hours in which to see Quebec, it goes without saying that mine was a whistle-stop tour. But I still managed to savour the delights of Poutine, the Quebec equivalent of fast food - chips, gravy and 'squeaky' cheese. "If it does not squeak when you eat then it is not the right cheese," indicated the lady who served up my grub. It squeaked!

Montmorency Falls are a must (there's an amazing zip wire there too!) and, if you have time, try and cross the impressive 2.75 mile Ile d'Orleans suspension bridge over the St Lawrence, built in 1935 with the sole purpose of creating jobs in post-depression Canada.

There you will experience a micro climate that enables much of Quebec City's produce to be grown locally, whilst also visiting one of the many 'sugar shacks', where Maple syrup is made; some date back to the 18th Century.

As for the Centre Ville itself you will not want for things to do. The 'must sees' are endless. There's the National Assembly building (look out for the tours) with its beautiful Fontaine de Tourney, stunning City Hall, the amazing graffiti park, and it's even worth checking out the architecturally stunning railway station!


And, after a long day, Hotel 71, in Old Quebec City, is where I chose to lay my head. This beautiful, boutique hotel is located in a prestigious building that was once the National Bank of Canada's first head office in Quebec City. The building façade is a stunning example of 19th century neo-classic architecture.

Bored? You won't be, so allow at least four days and take some good walking shoes. Quebec City is a pleasure to behold and not only embraces the charm of France, but the politeness and courtesy of North America. A polite Frenchman talking civilly to a Brit? Now there's a sight to behold but you'll find it here!

QUEBEC FACT BOX

Visit: quebecregion.com
OR
www.QuebecOriginal.com

Facebook - www.facebook.com/tourisme.quebec
Hotel 71 - http://hotel71.ca/en

Look out for Phil's next article as he wings his way to Montreal!