search
date/time
Yorkshire Times
Weekend Edition
frontpagebusinessartscarslifestylefamilytravelsportsscitechnaturefictionCartoons
Sharon Cain
Time for Life Correspondent
2:00 AM 27th August 2022
lifestyle

Rugged, Tidal, Bloodshed, Survival: Holy Island

 
Northumberland’s Medieval Kingdom and its turbulent past makes it one of the most potent and fascinating counties to explore.

Our Time for Life Correspondent, Sharon Cain, steps back in time on Holy Island, whose Anglo-Saxon name is Lindisfarne, where Vikings spilt the blood of Saints.

Located just a few miles south of the Scottish border, the evocative tidal island is connected to the mainland by a causeway which is flooded twice a day when the North sea gushes in.


Introducing Holy Island



Why Hold Island is inviting and enticing

Sadly, despite, being urged to check the tide times, many motorists misread the times and become trapped on the causeway, prompting the Coastguard crew and RNLI to rescue them.

Over the years, many motorists have come unstuck, including those carelessly parking on the causeway and going off for walks.

Beware Tidal Traps

Tide warnings are prevalent
Tide warnings are prevalent
Damage to vehicles can be irreversible - a flooded engine compartment will cause the car to stall and not restart while a fully or partially submerged car could be written off with insurance companies rejecting claims.

Tide times for safe crossings can be found around the island and on both sides of the causeway and local shops and cafes can also advise when it’s safe to cross.They can also be found on this official government website.

If, during your visit, you find yourself in trouble or see someone who may need assistance, call 999 and ask for the Coastguard.

Sacred Sanctuary

Dramatic feature: The Rainbow Arch
Dramatic feature: The Rainbow Arch
A key focal point of the island is the Priory where Irish monks settled in AD635 after Oswald, King of Northumbria, gave Holy Island to the church.

Described as the ‘Cradle of British Christianity’, a monastic community sprung up on the site from where early missionaries - led by the priory’s founder St Aidan, and St Cuthbert - spread the Christian faith throughout Northern Britain.

Northumbria’s greatest holy man: St Cuthbert
Northumbria’s greatest holy man: St Cuthbert
The priory is also the backdrop for the creation of the Lindisfarne Gospels, hailed as the most stunning manuscript to survive from the Anglo-Saxon period.

Representing the golden age of design and craftsmanship in Northumbria, the gospels will be on show at the Laing Gallery in Newcastle from September 17 to December 3, 2022.

Unholy Bloodshed

The Priory has religious and historic significance
The Priory has religious and historic significance
The Priory’s violent past includes a vicious Viking raid in 793AD. The widely chronicled massacre forced the monks to flee in abject terror, shocking Europe to its core.

Following the attacks, which were reported to be the beginning of the Viking Age, it’s believed the monks left the island and roamed for seven years carrying St Cuthbert’s coffin and various treasures.

To keep the priory open, monks from Durham Cathedral set up a Benedictine priory in the 12th century. Fast forward four centuries, and the priory was closed in 1537 by Henry VIII as part of the wider dissolution of the monasteries.

After becoming a storehouse for military supplies, the building fell into decay after led was stripped from the roofs in 1613.

Despite the desecration, the magnificent ruins give visitors a strong insight into the fascinating history.

Life on Lindisfarne

Quaint cottages are dotted around the island
Quaint cottages are dotted around the island
Life on Lindisfarne for the island’s 160 permanent residents – swelled by around 65,000 annual visitors – is understandably dominated by the tides.

Many have escaped the stress and bustle of city life to relocate and savour a slower pace. Visitors seeking accommodation are advised to book well in advance and overnight stays for caravans and motorhomes are prohibited.

Fortification: Lindisfarne Castle

Highest vantage point: Lindisfarne Castle
Highest vantage point: Lindisfarne Castle
Northumberland’s wonderland boasts more castles (70 in total) and historic sites than any other county in England.
Many were constructed in the 15th century to protect England against marauding Scottish armies.

The few which have survived intact include the imposing, dark and brooding Grade 1 listed Lindisfarne Castle. It was built on the highest part of the island around 1550 and initially used as a base for the Tudor navy.


The Castle features in ‘Macbeth’ and ‘The Scarlet Pimpernel’.

Over the next four centuries its chequered history includes being held by Royalist forces, seized by Parliamentarians, and captured by Jacobite’s before becoming a coastguard station.

In 1901 it was purchased by the owner of Country Life Magazine who transformed it into a glamorous residence before it became the property of the National Trust in 1944.

Wondrous Wildlife

200 species of flora
200 species of flora
Along with 200 species of flora and 25 different types of trees, Holy Island is rich in minerals, marine and bird life.
In winter it is home to around 50,000 birds including Ringed Plovers and Oystercatchers, both wading birds. Permanent residents include Eriskay ponies, Soay sheep, and Saanen goats.

Spectacular views: Bamburgh Castle
Spectacular views: Bamburgh Castle
Enchanted by its raw beauty, I found the lure of this sacred and timeless island irresistible.

Just 3 miles from east to west and 1.5 miles from North to South, there is nothing small about this sacred sanctuary which has outlived tumultuous tides and times and shines bright among the jewels in Northumberland’s magnificent medieval kingdom.